#1. From the center of the hub to the lip of the fender-well, the ride height of the stock '06 Toyota Tacoma measured 18¾ inches in front and 19 7/8 inches in the rear.

#2. With the Tacoma up on a lift, our installer begins the drop kit installation by removing the front wheels so he can dismantle the stock front suspension.

#3. After the stock upper control arm is removed by undoing three bolts as explained in the DJM instructions, the ball joint nut is loosened.

#4. Here is a good look at the new DJM upper control arm (left) compared to the stock control arm.

#5. The ball joint boot is removed from the stock upper control arm.

#6. The retaining clip is removed from the original ball joint.

#7. The ball joint is pressed out of the stock control arm on the H-frame press.

#8. Here is the ball joint removed to be reused in the new control arm.

#9. The stock ball joint is now pressed into the new DJM control arm and the retaining clip and boot are re-installed.

#10. Our installer removes the boot from the ball joint, now installed onto the new DJM control arm.

#11. With a long screwdriver, our installer re-seats the retaining clip securing the ball joint.

#12. To prevent damage in shipping, the zerk fittings are included in the kit, but must be screwed into the pre-drilled lubrication holes in the twin sleeves by the installer.

#13. Our installer spreads grease on the bushings by hand before installing them.

#14. The new DJM upper control arm is then positioned into place at the driver's front corner.

#15. A pivot bolt to hold the upper control arm in place is positioned in the pivot tube

#16. Our installer puts his wrench to the pivot bolt and tightens it.

#17. The upper ball joint nut is installed.

#18. Our installer then tightens the upper ball joint nut thoroughly.

#19. The retaining clip that Toyota uses to replace the traditional cotter pin is ready to be installed.

#20. The clip is installed.

#21. Our installer now bolts on the ABS retaining bracket.

#22. The retaining bracket is then tightened.

#23. He loosens the tie rod end.

#24. Next, he unbolts the sway bar end link.

#25. The stock sway bar end link is removed.

#26. The ball joint attaching plate is removed from the spindle.

#27. The anchoring bolt is removed from the lower strut.

#28. Our installer then removes the strut bolt completely.

#29. Next, he begins to remove the pivot bolts and alignment adjusters.

#30. The alignment adjuster bolt is removed.

#31. Here's a look at the stock lower control arm (right), just removed from the Tacoma, and the new DJM lower control arm.

#32. Because the stock ball joint must be moved to the new arm, our installer first taps out the retaining clip holding the ball joint in place in the stock arm.

#33. Here's the retaining clip removed.

#34. On the H-frame press, our installer removes the lower ball joint from the ball joint mounting bracket.

#35. Our installer then presses the ball joint out of the stock lower control arm and presses it into the new DJM lower control arm.

#36. Now our installer turns his attention to further preparing the DJM lower control arm to be installed by screwing in its grease fittings.

#37. Like the DJM upper control arm, the zerk fittings are shipped in the kit to be screwed into the threaded lubrication holes by the installer to prevent damage in shipping.

#38. After the zerk fitting is screwed into the pre-drilled and threaded lube hole by hand, it is tightened thoroughly with a box wrench.

#39. Our installer then greased the twin sleeves through the zerk fitting, making certain that the grease flowed freely.

#40. When the DJM lower control arms had been thoroughly prepared for installation, our installer began by positioning the arm on the driver's (left) front corner.

#41. He then inserted a pivot bolt through the pivot tube at each end of the control arm.

#42. Our installer gets a hand from a colleague in positioning the extension jack to adjust the position of the new DJM lower control arm.

#43. He then began re-assembling the driver's (left) front corner.

#44. The bolts are all tightened thoroughly with a power ratchet.

#45. Here's a close look at the permanently installed new DJM lower control arm with its built-on bump stop

#46. Our installer then tightened the control arm pivot bolt positioned through the pivot tube.

#47. The height of the control arm is adjusted with a bottle jack

#48. Satisfied that the new DJM control arm is exactly where he wants it, our installer tightens the bolts holding the arm thoroughly.

#49. The tie rod end link is installed

#50. Here's a look at the completed driver's (left) front corner now fitted with new DJM upper and lower control arms engineered to drop the front ride height.

#51. After the DJM control arms had been installed on the passenger's (right) side to complete the front end drop kit installation, the front wheels are installed.

#52. The Tacoma is securely supported on jack stands and bottle jacks before the rear drop is begun.

#53. The heavy-duty DJM 4" steel lowering block is in place on the leaf pack secured by longer-than-stock U-bolts.

#54. The stock bump stop bracket riveted to the frame must be cut off.

#55. The stock bracket is removed.

#56. A small sheet of metal is situated to shield the fuel tank from the sparks when the C-notch is cut out.

#57. Following a scribed cut line in the frame, our installer uses his plasma cutter to cut out the C-notch.

#58. Our installer removes the too-hot-to-handle, cut-out piece with pliers.

#59. Here's the raw cut out C-notch that will give the axle considerable upward travel room.

#60. Here's the DJM C-notch brace in position, held by only two of the seven bolts that will ultimately secure it.

#61. The anchor bolts to hold the C-notch brace are positioned.

#62. With all seven bolts through the mounting holes in the C-notch brace tightened, the C-notch looks strong and secure.

#63. The DJM bump stop is screwed into its cleverly engineered niche in the C-notch brace.

#64. Here is the completed driver's (left) side C-notch all bolted up.

#65. Our installer next moves to the passenger's (right) side and gets ready to cut out the C-notch.

#66. Following a cut line scribed into the frame, our installer cuts the C-notch out with his plasma cutter.

#67. He must use a cloth to handle the hot cut-out piece.

#68. Here's C-notch brace in place held by two of the seven bolts.

#69. The remaining anchoring bolts are installed into the mounting holes in C-notch brace.

#70. Here's the nut and washer used with each of the seven bolts to anchor C-notch brace.

#71. Our installer takes a moment to be certain the brake line is safely routed away from any moving parts.

#72. The bolts securing the C-notch brace are thoroughly tightened with a wrench.

#73. The DJM bump stop is screwed into place in the C-notch brace.

#74. Here is the finished C-notch on the passenger side with all seven anchoring bolts and the bump stop in the C-notch brace.

#75. The front ride height from center of hub to lip of the fender well measured 15 ¾ inches, a drop of exactly three inches.

#76. The rear measured 15-7/8 inches, a drop of exactly four inches.