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WHAT IS THE TIE ROD END FLIP KIT?
DJM Suspension does something about those cockeyed tie rod ends on lowered trucks…
Story & photos by Marshall Spiegel
It's a condition that results when a truck is lowered. Because of the repositioning of the suspension components, a radical angle is created at the point where the tie rod end meets the spindle. Ideally, the tie rod and the lower control arm should be on the same plane and parallel to the ground and each other. The unwanted angle of the tie rod when a truck is lowered results in very annoying bump steer and undue wear on suspension components. Additionally, the ride and handling are compromised.. Unfortunately, drop kit manufacturers and suspension technicians have never really addressed this problem. It was always one of those things folks just chose to live with. No one has come up with an affordable and practical method for correcting this problem. At least, not until recently when the good guys at DJM Suspension, Inc, of Gardena, CA, announced their new tie rod end flip kit for late-model Chevy Silverado pickups. Additional kits for other makes and models are on the drawing board. A few truths about the new flip kit deserve note. It will work on any lowered truck regardless of what drop kit has been installed.
The DJM tie rod end flip kit includes an 11/16th drill bit; a ¾-20 tap; tapping fluid; two tapered and threaded inserts; two USS 7/16th washers and a tube of Loctite.
It includes everything necessary to correct the condition. The installation is a 'piece of cake.' The kit is affordable, since rumor has it that the kit will be priced at about a hundred bucks. For the professional suspension tech who may do many installations, all components in the kit are reusable. Only the two tapered inserts must be purchased for each installation and, if you use the kit enough, you'll have to buy some more tapping fluid. Basically, the DJM kit provides new tapered and threaded inserts and everything necessary for re-drilling and threading the spindles so the inserts can be installed into the spindles. Once the inserts are properly installed, the tie rod ends are fitted into the spindles from the bottom up, rather than the stock position from the top down, and the unwanted angle is eliminated. To see just what's involved in the installation, we visited DJM and watched thier installation department demonstrate how the flip kit corrects the problem. Check out the photos.
Jeff the 'Wrench' begins the demonstration by removing the front wheels on the lowered
(4 X6) 2K Chevy Silverado.

Here's a close look at the tie rod end in the stock position from the top down into the spindle showing the radical unwanted angle, the condition that will be corrected by installation of the DJM kit.

A quality drill bit enclosed in the kit is used to drill the stock spindle hole to 11/16, the exact size of the tap also included in the kit.Jeff uses compressed air to blow off the residue left by the drilling.

The ¾-20 tap and the spindle hole are generously coated with taping fluid.

The tap is positioned as straight as possible in line with the hole.

Those who plan to do several installations like this one may want to adapt an air ratchet for the tap as Jeff had done.Because of the tap's fine thread, the air ratchet attachment works well.

Compressed air is used once more to blow off the residue from cutting the thread.

After the spindle had been drilled and tapped, the tapered insert from the kit is screwed in.

Jeff uses a screwdriver altered to fit to screw the insert into place.

When the insert is properly in place, it should be slightly below the surface of the casting.

After the spindle had been drilled, tapped and fitted with the DJM tapered insert, the tie rod is positioned back into the spindle, this time from the bottom up, and the unwanted tie rod angle will be eliminated once the vehicle is on the ground
.
A 7/16 USS washer is positioned before the nut that locks the entire assembly together.

The tie rod end is tightened.
After the wheels are reinstalled, it is only necessary for the installer to readjust the toe in/out himself, since the installation did not disturb the caster or camber and the services of an outside alignment shop is not necessary.
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